Vietnam Diaries (Day 19 and 20): Vietnam through my Lens

It is my last day in Vietnam. I am feeling many things - content at having experienced the country and its people, slowly and holistically; accomplished now that my first long solo trip is coming to an end; excited to be back home with family, especially with my cat Kovu; relaxed having had time away from everything - both personal and professional; reconnected with my hobbies of photography and writing and through them, my self; and a bit nervous at the prospects of having to find and resume work again.

I don't have much planned for today, except seeing the sunset in the city. Instead of blogging on the day, I thought I will just rewind this whirlwind 20-day trip over the next two days. To do this, I have chosen one photograph for each day (not necessarily clicked on the same day). I will tell you the story behind these photographs through that, help you learn a little more about Vietnam. 

These photographs are in chronological order and not ranked in any other way - it'll break my heart to do that. However, I have only chosen ones that capture moments that are important in the context of Vietnam and my trip.

Through this post, I conclude my series on Vietnam and resume the adventure of every-day life in India. 

#1: A Sunset at Long Biên Bridge, Hanoi

#1: Long Bien Bridge: 

This bridge was the first one built across the Red River that connects two districts of Hanoi, carrying railway and vehicular traffic. When it was built, it was one of the largest bridges in Asia. Under it is one of Hanoi's biggest night markets as well as the residence of many poor people who live on just boats (not captured in this photograph). Above it, is the beautiful sunset, its rays piercing through its old structure. Historically, this bridge was a prime target for the American troops to disable the North Vietnamese forces during the war. It is so old and dilapidated now that four-wheelers are no longer allowed on the bridge. 

To me, the bridge symbolizes a link to the past for Hanoi as well as its resilience as a city. 

#2: Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Hanoi

#2: Ministry of Foreign Affairs:

This is one of the grander buildings preserved in the political center of Hanoi, located next to the Ho Chi Minh Memorial, The Assembly, The Presidential Palace, and many National Consulate Offices. Hanoi has competed with Saigon for significance over the centuries, under the Chinese, French, Communist-Vietnamese rules. While the Old World War II Allies supporting the US played a huge role in starting the war, many other allies played a key role in building international pressure on the Americans to stop it, thus, the importance of foreign affairs itself.

This guard standing in attention position to me symbolizes the deference with which the people operate for the rule, which in itself is absolute, autocratic and preferential. However, it is nowhere close compared to the Chinese State. 

#3: Christina and Carlos as we visit the Surprising Caves

#3: Christina and Carlos as we visit the 'Surprising' Caves

Tourism forms a key source of income in the Vietnamese economy, and thus, most of Vietnam treats its tourists well. Jobs are far and few outside the trade centers and most people are engaged in primary occupations like farming, animal husbandry, logging, etc, in those areas, if not tourism. 

Christina is Spanish settled in Belgium and Carlos, a Venezuelan now settled in Spain. I spent some time with them on the overnight trip to Ha Long as well as later in Hanoi when I was there for a day. Both of them became best friends while writing their Ph.D. thesis in Barcelona, but on first impressions seemed as different as chalk and cheese. Carlos now fears to return back to Venezuela given the ongoing Civil War and finds refuge in his home away from home, that is Barcelona, thanks to friends like Christina who have welcomed and embraced him.

I thought this picture not only symbolizes the importance of tourism but friendship in times of strife.

#4: The Pearl Farm in the backdrop of an incredible sight at Ha Long Bay

4) The Pearl Farm in the backdrop of an incredible sight at Ha Long Bay

Legend has it that Ha Long Bay was a result of a large mother dragon descending on Earth, spewing pearls instead of fire (yes, Chinese Dragons are much more versatile than the ones in Hollywood).  The name Ha Long itself means Descending Dragon. As you view the sight, you can imagine the dragon scales rising through the water. In reality, these islets are a UNESCO Natural Wonder of the World, formed over three-million years of work by water on the limestone cliffs.

To me, this picture symbolizes the folklore that man creates to bring people together and more importantly, make a good sale!! To put a pearl farm in the middle of the bay is an ultimate example of money being the ultimate God. 

5) The Sunrise at Ha Long

5) The Sunrise at Ha Long

This was one of the few sunrises I saw in Vietnam, willingly waking up for it. Unlike India, it happens at 5AM here and takes a lot of commitment to get out of the bed and reach a place where you can find the view. Given I was on a boat in the middle of the sea, the effort seemed minimum and the view seemed fabulous. 

Living in cities, this picture made me wonder about the lack of large, public, open spaces which are accessible to man but unspoiled by him. Even the waters in Ha Long were peppered with many junk boats carrying dozens of tourists, seen in the form of the tiny lights in the foreground. How long before Ha Long is no longer the beauty it is? 

6) A Bamboo Store in the Old Quarters

6) A Bamboo Store in the Old Quarters

In the Old Quarters, each street is named after a skill that was practiced during the previous centuries, until of course, the tourist boom replaced many of these stores with restaurants, cafes, and bars. In the mid-19th Century, Bamboo poles were sold in the Hang Tre Street to be used by craftsmen at the Hang Be Street to make rafts to wade through the shallow waters around the city. 

Luckily, I found a store that still sold Bamboo poles on the same street. It was a reminder that not all things ancient, are forgotten. The lady reading the newspaper symbolized the afternoon rest, that seemed to be a common habit in Vietnam. Till as late as 2017, museums in Hanoi and HCMC used to close between 11:00 to 1:30 PM for a siesta!! 

7) A Lady Street-Vendor in Hanoi

7) A Lady Street-Vendor in Hanoi

The women of Vietnam paid a terrible price for the family - fathers, husbands, sons - that they lost during the wars. Often many ended up with no pensions at all, or pensions as little as 700 dongs (equivalent to a penny in those times) a month. They were forced to migrate to cities where they could find work. Many joined the army to fight the war and support the troops. Some got lucky and ended up trading or being domestic works, but others were also fooled and forced into flesh trade. In the modern-day, many women still lead difficult lives, often living with 10 -12 other women in a room, sometimes earning as little as $10 a month. The Vietnamese Women's Museum as well as the book "When Heaven and Earth Changed Places" captured many such stories that symbolize the strength of these women. 

This picture captures one such story. Her dressing is a typical worker dress seen in the country. Her face is hidden by a traditional sunhat, which means she could be any woman. The burden she carries symbolizes the burden of supporting herself and the dependents on her. Despite the burden, she has to walk the difficult path, every single day, from dawn to dusk.

8) Tien Son Cave in Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park

8) Tien Son Cave in Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park

Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park is another Natural Wonder of Vietnam, with hundreds of naturally formed caves. It lies close to the Ho Chi Minh Trail, which, in CIA's own confessions, is said to be one of the most superior and resilient military logistics routes ever. Despite the intense bombings that the American forces subjected the area to, often destroying its entire vegetation using Napalm fires, they were never able to stop the Viet Cong. The locals used the elaborate network of river beds and natural caves as hospitals, stores as well as supply routes shielded from the bombing. The problem with the terrain having watery mud and rice paddies was that the bombs never hit anything hard enough to explode, and thus, they still accidentally take lives of locals in the region.  [Click here if you want to read more]

The picture shows light at the end of the tunnel, or cave in this situation. At the end is a thick cover of green protecting the mouth of the cave. It is a reminder of the protection our planet naturally offers our species. At the same time, it is also a symbol of hope for the people who have suffered the effects and after-effects of the war for many years.

9) Children enjoying a cycle ride in Phong Nha Village

9) Children enjoying a cycle ride in Phong Nha Village

On the day I cycled 23 KMs to Bong Lai Valley from Phong Nha, I saw many children enjoy a cycle ride on this road by the river. In sharp contrast to the children who were born and lived with great difficulty (if they made it so far) during the war, these young Vietnamese have the opportunity to enjoy the small joys of childhood. 

These children symbolize the hope there is for the future generations of Vietnam.  Vietnam today is one of Asia's fastest-growing economy and like these children, races ahead on the path of economic change. 

10) The Road to Bong Lai Valley

10) The Road to Bong Lai Valley

Having never cycled long distance before, I completed this journey to Bong Lai Valley from Phong Nha Centre.  Unlike the cities, rural Vietnam is incredibly clean. There was no patch with litter, no plastic waste that was visible, which left the setting uncorrupted. There was no man in sight in many stretches. The rural scenery along the path made me feel calm. 

Personally, the path in many ways reflects the road ahead for me.  I am sure it'll be full of twists and turns and ups and downs, but that is where I will grow and discover new sides of me. All it will take is courage and an open mind. 

11) The Ben Hai River Crossing

11) The Ben Hai River Crossing

Sitting on the 17th Parallel, the Ben Hai River became a convenient point for the country to be split, because it is where Vietnam is the narrowest in terms of spread. The Bridge itself was coloured differently for the part that belongs to the North and the part that belonged to the South. The flag post was built and rebuilt many times to make sure it exceeded the flag on the other side. 

This region saw some of the heaviest fightings during the war. The Americans tried their best to prevent people and goods from crossing over the border, but the Vietnamese were ingenious in their use of a sophisticated network of manmade tunnels to ensure their survival. 

Walking this bridge in those days would have meant courting sure-shot trouble, even death. However, I was able to walk it as a free man. It reflects my privilege of free movement within and across countries today that I so often take for granted. 

12) The Sunset over the Perfume River in Hue

12) The Sunset over the Perfume River in Hue

They say 'to know a city is to walk its bridges' and this, like the Long Bein Bridge, is another architectural creation that has seen a lot. This is a sunset in Hue with the Perfume River and the Truong Tien Bridge in the foreground. The name means 'mint-factory', given the bridge was built right next to one. This bridge has been destroyed and rebuilt over three different wars. However, today, it offers inspirations for artists and photographers, with many girls wearing the traditional Ao Dai taking pictures on the bridge. In my ways, the Bridge symbolizes Vietnam's costly and hard-earned peace after over a century of wars.

To me, this picture also was reflective of my return to watching sunsets and sunrises. I saw one in every single city I visited and found them to be extremely energizing. Like writing and photography, this is something I want to continue finding time for. 

13) The Royal Theatre in Imperial City

13) The Royal Theatre in Imperial City

I had so far heard the word "Imperial City" only in movies until I visited one in the town of Hue. This is a photograph of its Royal Theatre. The home of the Nguyen Dynasty that ruled Vietnam from the mid-16th Century till the arrival of the French. Like the bridge, this elaborate complex, made of palaces, great halls, temples, residences, etc was largely destroyed due to the wars of the 19th-20th Century. However, unlike in India, the Vietnamese state has spent money restoring and preserving this complex, part by part. Yes, the foreign visitor's fees are expensive, but when it is a job well done, the fees are worth paying. 

Personally, I visited this complex on a rainy day, given it was the only day I had in the town. My own travel despite the rain in many ways reflected the continuity and resilience that the subject of this picture reflects. 

14) Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation

14) Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation

Hoi An used to be an ancient trading port used from the 16th to 19th Century. Different communities of shippers and traders from across the world had made Hoi An there home. These assembly halls were where people from one community would come together to socialize and to practice some of the traditions, making it a home away from home. This one was one of the five that was built by the Chinese, by the Fujian Chinese Community. It now functions as a temple.

The picture shot as a panorama captures the architectural structure against the blue skies. Unlike most other pagodas I visited, it seemed to lack symmetry as a whole complex. The individual components (like the pink gate) of the complex were still symmetrical. Also, the choice of colors was very distinct from the ones I typically saw in Vietnam, reflecting this site's distinct roots. 

I wonder what it'll take for the modern nations to allow diversity to co-exist and heritage, with contrasts, to be preserved especially in a world where majoritarianism is taking over and the push is towards driving more singular narratives about identity and national pride. 

15) The Lanterns of Hoi An

15) The Lanterns of Hoi An

Hoi An has been preserved in its original state and layout thanks to the river that flowed in getting silted and being rendered useless for large vessels. The town is famous for its street market that is usually lit by these traditional lanterns. With its pastel yellow walls and the tungsten lighting, the town looks even prettier by the night. However, I felt that the thriving tourism here has taken away much of its old-world charm, with me finding it hard to find a moment for myself without being interrupted. 

The girl in this picture was reviewing the photographs clicked by her friend against the backdrop of these lanterns, like the many tourists finding the perfect shot. I also think the back-lit image leaves you with a sense of mystery of what lies ahead. It is similar to Hoi An where the new and old are clashing,  leaving you guessing what lies ahead for the town's identity.

16) A fisherman casting his net in the Cam Thanh Fishing Village

16) A fisherman casting his net in the Cam Thanh Fishing Village

Most of Vietnam practices primary occupations, with fishing being one of them. Anyone who has seen Vietnamese street food would know why fishing is big here, given the extremely huge variety of options available to suit your palette. 

In this picture, a fisherman wearing a sunhat is casting his net in the backwaters. However, he is not doing it to catch fish, but to demonstrate the process of casting the net to tourists like me. He repeats the action thrice in a span of 15 minutes for people to see. He even offered to let tourists try casting the net out themselves. It allowed me to capture the perfect shot, despite clicking on my phone. Each basket boat rider in return would tip him 7000-10000 dongs, a share of the rider's own profits. 

I was glad the Vietnamese were able to convert some of their traditional practices into marketable, commercial experiences. Income is not easy to come by in Vietnam. It takes a lot of localized, community-based organizing to create authentic experiences that stand out for visitors. It takes much more openness and inclusivity to ensure the profits are shared with everyone contributing to creating the experience.

17) Babies' Day Out on the Da Nang beach 

17) Babies' Day Out on the Da Nang beach 

The only other day I chose to wake up at 5 AM when I did not have a train, bus, flight to catch, was on this morning when I went to Da Nang beach.  It was the Vietnamese Independence Day holiday and the beach was more crowded than  I expected it to be at that hour. Among the many visitors were these twin babies, dressed in white one-piece suits. Their parents had brought them here for a photo-shoot. However, the babies, thanks to their cuteness and size, drew a lot of attention from passerbys, giving the parents little time to actually get the perfect shot. Amidst all the chaos, I was able to find one frame where the babies were undisturbed. 

Every time I see the sea, I am filled with a sense of insignificance. I feel like a speck against the vast expanse of the water and the long horizon. However, I wished I could see what was going on in these babies' untouched brains. Maybe, they'll feel it is just like being in their mom's uterus. Maybe, they'll feel like "It is so much pee". I will never know, but I am glad to have shared this moment with them.

18) The Clear Blues of Nha Trang Beach

18) The Clear Blues of Nha Trang Beach

I spent my last evening in Nha Trang by the beach. It didn't offer a sunset, given it faces east. However, it offered the perfect soft lighting to see the colors of the scene come alive. The blues of the water and the faces of the people enjoying it were crystal clear. Given the waves were a bit rough, I could see how they evoked different reactions in the beach-goers. Some seemed to be enjoying the challenge. Some felt a bit overwhelmed after a rough experience at the hands of a wave. Some others, like me, were just scared and chose to stand out and enjoy the view instead. 

In this picture, I have captured two people in the first two categories - a girl, who was having fun, running to her friend, who was just a bit overwhelmed with the wave that hit her. The former was inviting the later to come back into the waters. All the fun they were having made my resolve to learn swimming even stronger. In the background, you can see the islands that are home to beautiful corals, that I have saved for the next time when I have learned to swim.

19) Locals enjoying a conversation at a cafe at the Saigon book street

19) Locals enjoying a conversation at a cafe at the Saigon book street 

The Nguyễn Văn Bình street was different from the rest of Saigon. It was home to thousands of books - firsthand and secondhand, in English and Vietnamese. It was free of vehicular traffic. It was full of installations, sculptures, and beautifully-designed stores - with plenty of shade from the city's sunshine and insulation from the noise.

In this picture, I have captured a shot of a book-cafe. It shows people either solo, or in twos, threes and even large groups - engrossed in a book or a conversation. There was a quote put up in the background (not seen in the picture) - "Happiness is a cup of coffee and a really good book". I wholly agree. I wonder what it'll take for our generation to get away from our phones and gadgets and get back to real people and good books again. Personally, I want to continue reading books more diligently, like I did on this break.

20) The Morning Rush against a Landmark of History

20) The Morning Rush against a Landmark of History

This is the Hotel Continental, Saigon. It was built in the late 19th century to provide the French, a home-like experience when they visited Vietnam. The heritage hotel has seen eminent guests, like Rabindranath Tagore (an Indian Poet, Artist, Polymath), Jacques Chirac (a French President) and Graham Greene (the author of The Quiet American, who wrote the book here). It has been a rendezvous point where journalists, correspondents, politicians, businessmen came together during the First Indochina War. During the Vietnam-America Wars, the hotel became the base office for some famous magazines like Times and Newsweek. 

The picture captures the hotel in the backdrop of busy Saigon traffic. It, in many ways, reflects a city that is moving forward quickly but yet remembering, through these symbols, where it once came from. 

Personally, I wonder what my own 'Hotel Continental' is - that has stood resolute watching my history with its twist and turns and marked key points on this journey. It is definitely people - not places - that have played this role for me. I am eternally grateful to them for this. It is also my camera that has captured some of these key moments of reflection and enlightenment for me.