Vietnam Diaries (Day 15): The Protection of Happiness

I had told Lien from my homestay in Hoi An that I was going to see the sunrise at 7 AM in the morning. She scoffed, saying if you want to see the sunrise in Vietnam, you should get up at 5 AM. Having nothing better to do while in Da Nang, I ended up doing just that. 

Volleyball for the more energetic lot!

I walked to the beach at 5 AM and to my surprise, it was brimming with people. When I say people, I don't mean tourists who frequent the beaches in Da Nang, but the locals. They were out there - practicing Tai Chi and Yoga, mud-bathing or sun-bathing or just bathing, playing volleyball and football, taking strolls hand-in-hand with their loved ones. They were all out there - octagenarians and septuagenarians, married couples, singles and youngsters on a date, teens and children of all ages. They all seemed to be having fun, engaging with people known and unknown, greeting them with smiles and occasionally,  inviting them to be a part of their activities.

These first-time visitors to the beach were getting a warm welcome by an old man.

I was wondering what the source of the enthusiasm was Monday morning, till I later discovered it was the Vietnamese Independence Day. However, I shouldn't have been surprised given I have seen people in Hanoi, as well as Phong Nha, getting started with their morning rituals by sunrise. Take a stroll by Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi or the Son River in Phong Nha and you'll experience the energy of the people.

Maximizing Tai Chi's effects in the morning sun

I think underlying this morning's experience has been my larger observation of what I have seen in Vietnam over the past two weeks. People work extremely hard but also seemed to make time to pause and be with others they care about. I have seen them sit on tiny plastic stools, sipping coffee or beer. I have seen them play card games and checkers. I have seen them sing into a microphone at a local Karaoke, looking into their phones if TV screens are unavailable.  I have seen them exercise with peers in the morning or evening. 

Never Too Early for a Date

What has been heartening to see is their 100% commitment to the moment they are in. It seems like they are truly connecting with each other. More often than not, I see laughter, joy, and peace on their faces. The absence of cellphones in most of these situations has been a stark contrast to what I see back home these days. 

Interesting, I chanced upon what may be at the root of this cultural trend while reading "When Heaven and Earth Changed Places".  Le Ly Hayslip, the author says “In the West, for example, people believe they must 'pursue happiness' as if it were some kind of a flighty bird that is always out of reach. In the East, we believe we are born with happiness and one of life's important takes, my mother told me, is to protect it.” I also gather from the book that they have had ample opportunities to build the time for this socialization in their routines, given their roots in tribal, community-oriented living and livelihoods largely based on subsistence-based occupations like farming, hunting, etc. This has never been a land of plenty, so authentic relationships are all they hold dear, in life and even in death. 

A Father and Son share a moment

The grass does seem greener on the other side. However, being introverted and highly independent, I don't know whether I will be able to sustain such a lifestyle without its obligations tiring me out. At the same time, I admire the idea of complete commitment to the moment and it is something I would want to imbibe in my life.  It was indeed a good morning for me.

Zooming out from the people to admire the sunrise