I spent today morning visiting the
Thien Mu Pagoda in Hue. I then traveled to Hoi An where I spent the evening at
the Ancient Town which is an 'exceptionally well-preserved example of a small-scale trading port active the 15th to 19th centuries' (UNESCO).
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| Each level is dedicated to a Buddha that appeared in human form |
Both these places attract hordes of tourists given their historic and cultural significance. Both are incredibly stunning sights for very different reasons -Thien Mu Pagoda, because of its idyllic setting and the harmony with which it stood in its surrounding and Hoi An Ancient Town because of its traditional architectural design and layout against the riverbank. However, the feelings they evoked in me were exactly the opposite. The Thien Mu Pagoda made me feel extremely peaceful and calm while Hoi An made me feel agitated. It was not to do so much with the physical setting as it was to do with the people.
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| Guarding the sanctity of the Place? |
At the Pagoda, you could see the monks peacefully going about their day-to-day chores, tending to the flora, conducting the rituals or maintaining the premises. Even the tourists who visited the Pagoda were respectful of the sanctity of the site.
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| Thankfully, the streets are strictly pedestrian in the evening. |
At the Ancient Town, you could see a constant rush of tourists from all parts of the world. They were either trying to get the perfect Instagrammable shot against the lanterns and the pastel yellow walls or trying to get the best deal on handmade shoes, clothing or bags. In addition, the locals added to the chaos reaching out to you to sell any product or service that could be of use to a tourist. It was hard to find a moment where you were uninterrupted unless you were sitting in a fancy cafe overlooking the street.
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| Can you click me the perfect Hoi An photo? [She went on for 10 minutes at one spot] |
I thought it could because of my personal preference for serenity, but at the same time, I also felt that there was an element of character that the Pagoda could maintain that the Ancient Town could not. Yes, it was a trade center so the bustle is natural, but I felt the interactions at the Ancient Town, unlike in the Old Quarters in Hanoi, seemed to be exclusively directed at tourists alone. It seemed like I was in an amusement park, feeling that what I was experiencing existed only because the tourists were there.
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| Tripadvisor recommends so many shops in Hoi An that it is no longer a badge worth wearing |
Hoi An's Ancient Town is picturesque and has a few very interesting and educational old houses, museums, assembly halls, and cultural centers. By no means, I am saying it is not worth a visit. I am only questioning whether it is true to its character and whether what we're seeing in the ways of life is even a glimpse of the Hoi An that existed three to four centuries ago.
It reminds me of this philosophical metaphor of the 'Ship of Theseus'. The questions I want to leave you with are: At what point does something lose its authenticity and who decides that? When is it evolution and when is it a loss of identity?
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